Recently our company founder took a tire off from one of his cars to have it checked for a slow leak.  However, once he arrived at the tire store, he was informed that the tire was more than six years old, and that it could not be serviced.  Huh?

If you haven’t had an older tire serviced recently, this is the scenario that will probably unfold if you do.   Research has shown that after a certain amount of time passes, generally around six years, tire failures dramatically increase. The tire industry has not yet set  up its own estimate, partly because it doesn’t want to give consumers the idea that its tires are guaranteed to last that long.  Tire stores probably won’t risk the potential lawsuit that could result from an accident involving  an older tire that they serviced.

This is not only a concern for your 1992 Corvette that’s still riding on its original tires, but also if you are considering purchasing “new” tires from an unknown seller.  High Performance and Ultra High Performance tires may have a longer “shelf life” based on their high cost.  If you are considering purchasing tires from an online auction site or trading forum, ask for pictures of the DOT markings on the tire’s sidewall.

If the tire was made before the year 2000, you’ll see three numbers after the DOT letters; the last number indicates the year the tire was made. On newer tires, those manufactured in 2000 or later, you’ll see four numbers. The first two numbers indicate the week it was built and the last two digits specify the year the tire was made. As an example, if you see a “295″, then the tire was made in 1995, or if you see a “3209″, the tire was made in the 32nd week of 2009.

If you are concerned about the age of the tires on your Corvette, call a reputable tire dealer.  And get back on the road!

Oil – Typically an oil change is one of the last things you should perform before your car goes into winter storage, but if this was overlooked, now is the time. Remember to change the filter as well.

Coolant – Again, this is something that should be handled before storage, but for newer Corvettes, the regular scheduled maintenance intervals should be followed. On older cars, replace coolant that looks rusty in color. While coolant should be mixed in with water, northern cars should have a stronger coolant to water ratio (70%/30% is recommended).

Battery – Check the battery case for cracks and the terminals for damage. Clean the terminals with a wire brush, apply grease to them and tighten the cable connections.

Plugs – These typically need replacement every 40,000 miles or so, but it’s a good idea to check them periodically. Remove a spark plug with a good plug socket and wrench. Check the porcelain for any cracks, and check the electrodes for oil or excessive deposits. Worn electrodes warrant a new set; deposits or oil are indicative of bigger problems.

Filters (fuel, air) - For fuel filters, follow the service schedule in your owner’s manual. For air filters, change every spring if you are using a replaceable element. A visual inspection is all that is needed for non-replaceable elements like a K&N. If it’s dirty, follow the cleaning and oiling instructions provided by the manufacturer.

Fluids – Check and top off the brake and transmission fluids. Look for puddles underneath the car. If you see a few drops on the floor, those may be caused by a seal that will swell when you start driving. A larger puddle needs more investigation.

Injectors – Make it a habit to add a bottle of fuel injector cleaner with your first fill up in the Spring. It’s an inexpensive safeguard against deposits that could clog your injectors, resulting in lost power and poor fuel economy.

Belts & hoses – Belts will show signs of cracking with age. Replace them if this is the case. Hoses tend to crack from exposure to heat and aging. For coolant hoses, pinch them near the ends. If you feel any voids or ridges, this could be indicative of corrosion on the inside.

Tires – Check the pressures for consistency. If one tire is really low find out why – leaking bead or a roofing nail in the tread?

Engine bay – Finally, inspect the engine bay. If your car was stored in a location where mice could have been present, pay close attention to wiring and hoses in the engine compartment, as rodents love to chew on insulation.

The worst scenario for your Corvette is when one cold front after another pummels your garage with temperature fluctuations creating extreme condensation in internal driveline components. Engines, transmissions, and differentials corrode from the top down while the condensation drips into the lubricant. Fuel tanks have condensation dripping from the roof of the tank, corroding the steel fuel sending unit or the tank itself in 1953-1973 Corvettes.

The length of time that your Corvette sits is what really matters. Three months requires very little winterizing. Filling the fuel tank and keeping the battery charged is the extent of preparation.  Planning on longer term storage?  Use these guidelines:

PAINT: If your Corvette is going to sit for four or more months without activity, the car should be washed to safeguard against any environmental fallout like tree sap, dead bugs etc.  Some of the fallout may be acidic and damage the paint or clearcoat permanently.

TIRES & WHEELS: Scrub the tires to remove any built up oxidation and apply a tire dressing once they are dried.  Clean your wheels in a similar fashion to paint as brake dust, when left on wheels for extended periods, can permanently damage the wheel surface.  Remember to use a clearcoat specific cleaner if your wheels are clearcoated.  While on the subject of tires, don’t worry about flat spotting unless you have bias plies.  There has been significant strides in tire composition and technology, and any flat spotting that does occur on radials will be eliminated with a nice 30 minute drive in the springtime.  It is OK to keep your tires inflated to the correct pressure, and overinflating is preferred by some to reduce the tire’s pliability.  Just be sure to correct the pressure in the spring.

INTERIOR: To prevent moisture buildup and possible mold formation, use a desiccant in the footwells and rear cargo areas.  DampRid is a popular choice and it is available at major retailers like Walmart.

FUEL TANK: The fuel tank should be filled to the top with winter fuel (available after October 1) and our part number 351005 fuel stabilizer should be added.

BATTERY: The battery should be kept charged throughout the entire time your Corvette is stored whether it’s winter or summer. We recommend our Battery Tenders, parts 171251 or 171217. Simply connect the Battery Tender to your battery and it maintains the battery charge without any damage or concerns about overcharging or overheating your battery.

FLUIDS: Make sure to top off all fluids including coolant, brake fluid, clutch and transmission, oil and fuel.  Always change your oil and filter before placing a car in long-term storage as well.

RODENTS: Any part of a city, suburb or rural area is open to rodent problems, and they can wreak havoc on a Corvette, particularly the plug wires.  Certain brands of plug wires (including GM) consist of a vegetable based outer shell which is very appetizing to varmints.  To keep them looking elsewhere for their next meal, place mothballs in the engine area.  Just don’t forget to remove them before starting the car.  Regarding tail pipes, place face cloths over each and wrap rubber bands around them.

CAR COVERS: Indoors or outdoors, we recommend covering a car when it will be stored for more than a few months.  The type of cover you select should be based on where the car will be stored.  A weatherproof cover is a solid choice for indoors or outdoors, but a cotton cover will suffice for indoor-only storage.  Corvette Central stocks a nice variety of covers that are tailored for your year and model Corvette.

STARTING THE CAR IN WINTER: We recommend starting your Corvette once a month throughout the winter if possible.  This will help circulate the oil rather than letting it sit in the oil pan all winter, exposing cylinder walls and moving parts to possible corrosion.

Our technical assistance reps get a lot of questions regarding the Tire Pressure Monitor System (TPMS) that is standard on C4, C5 and C6 Corvettes. The TPMS became a requirement for all vehicles under 10,000 lbs. produced after September 2007. An interesting side note is that the band sensors which are so prevalent today were introduced on the 1987 Corvette. Customer questions tend to focus on reprogramming, compatibility, and changing wheels, so we’ll cover those topics here.

C4: The C4 system uses a transmitting wheel sensor held in place by large band clamp. Each sensor has a separate identification color and frequency, which is transmitted as the wheel turns. If a sensor gets mounted to the wrong wheel, a Diagnostic Trouble Code (DTC) will be sent.  Wheel position, sensor colors and Diagnostic Trouble Codes (DTC) are as follows:

• Right Rear: Orange, DTC=24
• Left Rear: Yellow, DTC=34
• Left Front: Green, DTC=44
• Right Front: Blue, DTC= 54

It is possible to attain the code from your dashboard.  With the key in the “on” position, press and hold the “Trip/Odo” button until “1.1″ is visible on the trip odometer readout.  Next, press the “Eng/Met” button to scroll down the present code list (which is displayed at the MPH indicator) until you see the applicable one.

The movement of the wheel provides the energy necessary to power the transmitter. If the tire pressure drops below 25 PSI, the sensor stops transmitting to the receiver, and the “Service LTPWS” lamp illuminates. The sensors don’t require batteries, and the receivers don’t need to be reprogrammed. (source: VetteWeb, Corvette Fever)

C5: There are two different types of C5 pressure sensors. The first sensors were installed on 1997-2000 models. The later sensors are featured on 2001-2004 models. Note that these two types of sensors are NOT interchangeable.
When the car is in stationary mode, the roll switches only transmit once per hour in order to save battery life. The car must be driven in order to take the sensors out of stationary mode. Once the wheel is rotating, the roll switches are activated and the sensor transmits once per minute.
Reprogramming the sensors requires a strong (preferably u-shaped or circular) magnet.

1. Turn the key to the ON position but do not start the car.
2. Press the DIC RESET button to clear any warning messages, if they’re present.
3. Press the OPTIONS button and cycle through the menu until the display goes blank.
4. Press and hold the RESET button until “FOB TRAINING” appears on the display.
5. Press the OPTIONS button once. A “TIRE TRAINING” message is displayed.
6. Press the RESET button once. A “LEARN LEFT FRONT TIRE” message is displayed.
7. Hold a magnet over the Valve Stem on left front wheel. You may have to move it around the valve stem to hit the right spot.
8. When the horn beeps (about 7 seconds later), programming is complete for THAT wheel.
9. Program the other 3 wheel sensors as directed by the DIC message display. The sequence is as follows: Left Front, Right Front, Right Rear, Left Rear.

You have approximately 45 seconds to train each tire. If the sensor isn’t reset in that time, the training program shuts down and you will have to start the entire procedure over.
If you intend to use a second set of wheels for winter driving, competitive driving, etc., new TPMS sensors will need to be purchased. They are available through Corvette Central.

C6: As with the C5, when the C6 Corvette is in stationary mode, the roll switches only transmit once per hour in order to save battery life.

At 20mph, the sensor roll switches activate to initiate full time monitoring. Actual tire pressures of greater than 42 PSI or less than 25 PSI will activate the “LOW TIRE PRESSURE” warning message. If actual tire pressure is less than 5 PSI, a “FLAT TIRE” warning message is displayed, 2 chimes sound, followed by “MAX SPEED 55 MPH” and “REDUCED HANDLING”. Note that the car will not default to a reduced power, or “limp”, mode under these conditions.

If the Remote Control Door Lock Receiver (RCDLR) detects malfunctions in the TPMS, it will display a “SERVICE TIRE MONITOR” message.

The C6 Corvette requires a TPMS reset tool. Excluding some very early production 2005 models, magnets will not work on the C6′s. The TPMS tool is expensive to purchase, but you may order them through a Chevrolet dealer or the Tire Rack. Instructions for use are similar to the C5:
1. Turn the key to the Accessory position but do not start the car.
2. With the key fob, press and hold the Lock and Unlock buttons simultaneously until an audible chirp is heard from the horn.
3. Hold the TPMS tool over the valve stem on left front wheel. You may have to move it around the valve stem to hit the right spot. Press the “learn” (or similar) button on the TPMS tool.
4. When the horn beeps (about 3 seconds later), programming is complete for THAT wheel.
5. Repeat steps 3 and 4 for the other 3 wheels. The sequence is as follows: Left Front, Right Front, Right Rear, Left Rear.
After resetting the left rear wheel, an audible double-chirp is heard from the horn. This completes the sequence.

If you intend to use a second set of wheels for winter driving, competitive driving, etc., new TPMS sensors will need to be purchased. They are available through Corvette Central.